First Movement - Season 2011 - The Canal du Centre

April 12th 2011
Well, here we are, back on Joli Coeur after our winter season in the Turks and Caicos Islandsand our week in England to join in Simon's daughter Lulu's wedding on 1st April, to visit the dentist and to spend a fortune on paint, varnish and assorted goodies that are either much cheaper, much better or simply not available in France. Our little Peugeot Partner brought us safely back to St Symphorien via an overnight at Chablis (great wine, moderate dinner), although it struggled a bit on the hills, being so laden down with our purchases.

We found Joli Coeur to be in great shape, thanks largely to the attentions of our friend Steve(see last year's entries) who had opened up, turned on the water and electricity and made all ready for our return. We were delighted, not to say surprised, to find that almost all the work that was due to be carried out during the winter had actually been done - new dashboard and kitchen window; new carpets in guest room and wheelhouse. Only the cleaning of excess grout from the kitchen floor remains to be sorted out by David.

We will spend the next week getting ready to start our 2011 cruise: topping up the diesel and water, buying our vignette (cruising permit) for the year, stocking up with wine, water and everything heavy that we can think of while we have the car with us.

Our voyage this year will take us south to Chalon, north to Paris, east to Rems, further east to Nancy and possibly Strasbourg before returning south to St Symporien. With luck and a following wind I will be able to scan a map and post it to this blog

April 19th
We're off!!! Not a long trip today. Just through our local lock, on to the Saone and a couple of miles downnstream to the campground just outside St Jean de Losne. Tomorrow will be much more challenging as we have quite a long trip down the Saone nearly to Chalon before turning into the Canal du Centre.
What a fabulous time of year this is in central France. We left the last of the cold weather in England, and although a few mornings have been frosty, the sun has shone pretty well all the time and we are able to wear just shorts and a shirt.


Joli Coeur leaving St Symphorien

 All the blossoming trees are in full bloom now - Wisteria (much earlier than I remember it in England), Lilac, bright yellow Kerria Japonica which seems to be in every garden, Cherry trees, Apples and Pears The oil seed rape, which they seem to grow a lot here, makes every third field or so so bright yellow that it almost huts the eyes. We have planted geraniums and petunias on Joli Coeur and revived our flagging herb garden. Tomatoes can wait until next year - we have quite enough on our plate for the moment.

April 21st
Who (blog)spotted the missing day? Life is never without the odd complication and yesterday's was caused by problems with our boiler and generator. Not really their fault - just new fuel full of water (or old fuel full of water after shaking up by the delivery of new fuel) - who knows? Fortunately for us the wizard Steve was at hand and all was sorted out in a matter of some four hours - but far too late to contemplate moving

April 22nd

St Jean de Losne on the Saone

So, after a second night at St Jean de Losne we were up and about betimes and raring to go. Joli Coeur was not! She was stuck firmly in the Saone mud and refused to budge until (yet again) Steve came to the rescue and towed us off. Starting therefore at 10.00am rateher than 8.00 am as intended put a bit of a strain on the day, as we were determined to get down the Saone as far as Chalon and into the Canal du Centre - and we really had no idea whatsoever how long that would take. All the same we spent an enjoyable  (some of it) day learning how best to steer Joli Coeur, admiring the cows, the pretty houses and buildings as well as the scenery and travelling, downstrem, at what seemed to be a prodigeous speed. The bits that were stressful rather than enjoyable were going through the two huge locks on the river and the much smaller (but very deep) one that took us on to the canal. Charlyn had been in a state of total panic about how to handle the lines to tie us up safely in the locks, and claimed to have forgotten completely how to do it. In fact she managed quite beautifully, and the fact that we swung about a lot in the big locks was entirely the fault of the lock designers ( or perhaps the helmsman - but that seems hardly possible).
By 5.30 pm we were still on the Saone with some way to go, but a phone call to lock number 34 on the canal, elicited the information that the lock would be open until 7.00 pm. Big sigh of relief! We arrived there at 6.30 pm, happy to be off the big river, and managed to squeeze into what seemed like far too narrow a space without even touching the walls.

Just a mile or two up canal is the small village of Fresnes which has really gone out of its way to make boaters and bargees happy. Not only is there plenty of properly bollarded mooring (with water and electricity), but also within easy walking distance a superb boulangerie and an excellent canalside restaurant.

Tired but happy, and really quite proud of ourselves, we tied up, had a couple of large drinks, resolved to stay (at least) awhole day without moving on, and took ourselves off to bed.
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April 23rd - April 25th Easter weekend

The menu board at Fleur de Sel

After our somewhat tiring adventures of the previous day we decided to stay at least a day at Fragnes. Then we decided to stay an extra day as our friends Doug and Sut San on Carpe Diem (who had stayed on JC last winter while they got their own barge ready) called and told us that they would meet there. The "excellent' canalside restaurant the 'Fleur de sel' turned out to be just that as we discoverd at lunch time on Good Friday. Simon went very french and had Soupe de Poissons folowed by Steak Tartare. Charlyn was a little more conservative with melon and baby shrimps and then fllet of pork. We shared a dessert, a litre of local red and took ourselves off for a siesta!. The bakery was also great, good bread and almost delicious goodies.

The barging life seems to be all about meeting people and gathering local knowledge (after all EVERYBODY knows more than we do at the moment). First we met Annie and Paul on the charter barge Bonheur. Annie caught lines for us as we arrived. Then friends of our previous owner Jack and Gendal and their lovely dog Bernie (who enjoyed the present I gave him of a lamb leg bone) on Deja Vue. This in addition to getting together with Doug and Sut San. I think canal life will not be too lonely.

April 26th

Changy town square

On the move again. Seemingly not too testing a trip from Fragnes to Chagny. Only 12 kms BUT 11 locks to negotiate. Took us just over 5 hours to the port at Changy where we found yet again Annie ready to catch our lines. Very good thing too as  it was blowing quite hard out of a clear blue sky and steering was far from easy. In fact  I got a telephone call from Cosmo, my new son in law, half way up which I had to pass to Charlyn as even a moment's lack of concentration and JC goes wandering off all over the place - mostly into the nearest bank!

This evening we have been recommended the Grill at Greniers de Sel. Meant to be very reasonable but good for steaks on open fire. We shall see...

April 27th
Yes, supper at the Grenier was as good as we had hoped. Esgargots and a (really) 'bleu' steak for me and a rather more cooked steak followed by 3 sorts of ice cream for Charlyn. Great atmosphere, very busy and certainly recommended to all. Tel: 03850910.
We set off early this morning at 8.00 am and were glad to have done so as the wonderful weather that we have enjoyed since we came to France decided to leave us this afternoon. However by the time it got cold and started to rain we had not only completed our journey and tied up safely at the port in St Leger, but had also eaten lunch, taken a nap and walked around the town.
It was an almosst uneventful trip from Chagny, the only major excitement being that we found two locks to be closed against us and had to hang around waiting for boats to come down. Trying to keep JC on the straight and narrow when stationary is at the moment quite a challenge. However the locks all went well and we are beginning to relax more. We will stay in St Leger tomorrow, doing some more maintenance work (mostly sanding down the varnish work) and move on on Friday as we have no means of watching THE WEDDING.



Joli Coeur at the port in Changy

April 28th - 29th
Here we are in St Leger. Why the extra day? because we came accross a delightful English couple who have a TV on their boat. So we stayed the extra day and watched THE WEDDING live. What a joy that was - and though I say it myself as an Englishman - nobody can match the Brits when it comes to putting on a state occasion pageantry. Our great thanks to Robin and Liana on Glistening Steel for allowing us to share the occasion (and a couple of bottles of wine to accompany the chicken pie that I had run up) and to enjoy the show.

The Port at St Leger

St Leger is a delightful small town with a good restaurant "Au p'tit Kir" which we did not patronize, having been out to eat quite enough times for our budget this month!  We remember it well as it was where we had our "Last Supper' at the end of our Jubilant cruise last year.
After the cold and wet weather of yesterday it was great to have the sun back in force this afternoon and we are ready to set off again.

April 30th
Difficult to describe the day as there was so much going on and so many different reactions by us both to the events of the day.

Before we set out (at 9 0'clock as the lock did not open until then) we had virtually resolved to cut our day's journey in half, by staying at St Julien instead of making the whole distance to Montchanin which would involve 19 locks in a distance of some 17 kms.

We were also expecting to be held up by a large commercial barge which had passed by St Leger late the evening before. However, the morning went very much better than we had hoped and we got to St Julien by lunch time and decided to progress just another 3 locks to a mooring we had heard of. Of course we should have stayed at St Julien. It was a nice looking village and our friends on Bonheur were already there which is a recommendation in itself. But... we decided to move on. All this part of the Canal du Centre is very pretty - as well as being very winding with some pretty sharp curves which are difficult to negotiate.


Charlyn working a lock



When we arrived at the chosen mooring site we found that we could not do so and were forced to continue the whole way to Montchanin where the guide showed a proper port with all facilitities. We arrived there after a 7 1/2 hour day absolutely exhausted, only to find that the "port' was no more than a junkyard for dead and dying boats and that there seemed to be nowhere else to go. I should explain at this point that Montchanin is the highest point of this canal - so far all the locks have been lifting us up, but from now on they go down.



The "Port' at Monchanin

 We did spot a couple working on their barge in the "port' and asked if we could come in and tie up by them. It was a very tight squeeze, but we just managed to make it. For the first time we had run into people on the canal who were not friendly and welcoming. They did nothing to help us and very soon made it clear that they resented our presence. This is somewhat worrying as May 1st is a public holiday here in France and all the locks will be closed preventing us from leaving in the morning. What is worse is that there might be a strike of lock keepers on Monday which will delay us further. So we will see....

May 1st
I am experiencing some problems with uploading photographs to the blog. Yesterday I couln't make any happen and today (so far) I have just managed the one of the graveyard port. I will keep trying as I know this record is much more fun with pics to look at. For the moment you may have to rely simply on my deathless prose. Charlyn was not feeling great today, probably too much sun yesterday sitting at the bow of JC all day to do her part in getting us safely in and out of the locks. So she had a quiet day and I spent the morning continuing to sand the aft deck end of the wheelhouse. I have so far got through more than 20 sanding pads and am rapidly running out. However progress is being made. Not a word from our neighbours all day - what a grumpy and anti social pair they are!

May 2nd

Off again! Thank goodness no strike. Quite a tricky manoevre to get out of our mooring and then a bit of a wait (and 2 or 3 telephone calls) before the lock keeper arrived to open up for us. After that a delightful day, from Montchanin to Monceau les Mines passing some 9 locks in 17kms and doing it all in 5 hours. Quite the experts!
The bird life along the canal is fascinating. We are woken every morning by the dawn chorus of all the small birds and along the way have met several families of new born mallard ducklings, one such a large family that Charlyn could not count the number of babies. We also have a lot of grey heron ( or perhaps just one that follows us all the time) and in Montchanin we met a lonely grebe. The other canal "life" are the fishermen who station themselves by the bank all day and sometimes greet us in a friendly way and other times mutter in their beards about interference in their lives and fishing lines. Despite the lack of flow and the addition of boat sewage the canals are full of fish and some of them huge.
Today we also had the luxury of a "tame" eclusier (lock keeper) who followed us for 6 of the 9 locks and opened all the gates for us. Such kindness and attention cannot go unrewarded and I gave him a bottle of Graves as thanks. Not such a sacrifice as it was one that we didn't really like. But, as they say, it's the thought.
Tomorrow will be another day of rest with lots planned to do in the town.

                                           DOWN LOCKING ON THE CANAL DU CENTRE
                                                   (Photos courtesy Mrs Charlyn Anderson)



The approach





 





That looks tight!

 


Made it!



Gates are open   Let's go!

 May 3rd
As you can see (above) I am trying to upload a rather nice sequence of photos taken by Charlyn showing us downlocking on the canal du Centre. As yet I have not succeeded in getting them all on - but I am working on it.
Today was a pleasant day of rest in this unasuming tow, Nothing spectacular by way of architecture or attractions but friendly and with a nice pedestrian shopping street running parallel to the town quay. We spent the day tied up to "The Duke" who was as pleasant about our company as the last lot were unpleasant! Tuesday is market day in Monceau and we spent a happy time topping up our vegetables and meat supplies all within 100 metres of our mooring.
The morning was completed by a good lunch at "Le Marmitot" which we had visited the day before (fortunately) as it transpires that at this time of year they are open only for lunch except Thursday therough Saturday. As I know you are all fascinated by our diet I will report that Charlyn had delicious prawns on a kebab with salad (too much mustard in the dressing) followed by medaillons of veal with vegetables and then a wonderful chocolate ice cream - quite clearly home made- which we shared. I, true to tradition, started with snails which were good but not as good as the ones in Chagny and then a marvellous rib of lamb. Two pichets of Cote de Rhone helped the whole thing down and we retired to JC mid afternoon and did nothing else whatsoever...

May 4th



The 'Other' canal users



Lifting bridge at Monceau les Mines

Although we like to be up and about and off on our journeying early, it seems that the French have other ideas, so that the locks don't open until 9.00 am. To get out of Monceau we had to pass through 3 different lifting bridges. The first lifted the whole roadway bodily up. making a bridge over our heads; the second had large crane arms which swung the roadway up from the right and the third was hydraulic and lifted one side of the bridge above us. Fascinating. 

Market day at Monceau les Mines



First dinner on aft deck - Monceau


We had a journey of some 17kms and 7 locks to make - not such a daunting task, and we duly arrived in Genelard at 2.30 pm, 5 1/2 hours later. This is an uneventful little village, but is home to an ironmongery with a wide reputation for stocking 'everything'. Investigation found that their reputation is not ill founded and we managed to buy most of what we needed - including more sandpaper.
Here we met an English couple Tom and Lou Wright who have been barging for many years and are also previous ( and very experienced) cruising sailors. Drinks, of course, paid for with more information about what lies ahead.

May 5th
As tradition has already established today was a day of rest and work on JC. Much more use of the newly acquired sandpaper and a further visit to the Quincaillerie where I invested in some paint stripper to see if that makes work progress faster without damaging the underlying wood. Charlyn did washing and catching up on pictures on the web of the Royal Wedding. We are expecting more visitors this evening - an American couple who have tied up next door, Tom and Laurel (not to be confused with Tom and Lou from the evening before. All this socialising.......and what is more not just one couple visiting, also Joseph and Madeleine from the Tjalk tied up on the other side of the harbour. We are certainly getting to know a lot of people - and getting through a lot of wine.
 

The moorings at Genelard



May 6th
Yet another absolutely beautiful day without a cloud in the sky. The mornings are still quite 'sharp' and my morning walk to the nearest bakery wearing shorts but two sweaters is certainly quite cold enought to ensure I am wide awake.
We left the really good harbour at Genelard on the dot of 9.00 am and had a really peaceful and uneventful journey of 20kms and 8 locks to Paray le Monial. You may possibly imagine that with all the socialising we have been doing  the canal is full of traffic. far from it - we hardly ever meet a boat or a barge and today had the canal all to ourselves for 5 1/2 hours. More ducklings, more heron (Charlyn still swears it is the same one all the way, and today we noticed the Flag Iris on the banks just beginning to flower and in one garden a whole bunch of dark red paeonies. This is Charolais country and the ubiquitous white cow is everywhere. Grass fields with wonderfully maintained hedges (great hunting country) and almost every field with a herd of its own.
Paray le Monial promises well and although it was the home of a saint, hads lots of churches and a town to which many Catholics make a pilgrimage - just now we have our sights set on the rumoured Chinese Restaurant which we are told we will find in the town this evening.
Still no luck with the photos. Tomorrow I will seek on line help and hope to be back in action after that.

May 7th
At Paray le Monial.

The Basilica at Paray le Monial

Always mistrust signs that you see on the side of the road - especially when your only means of off-barge transport is a bicycle or shanks' pony! Just opposite our mooring is a large sign which advertises 'Le Grand Frais' 5 minutes. Le Grand Frais is our favourite vegetable shop, even though a huge chain store, and I volunteered to bicycle over to pick up supplies. Unfortunately, despite a local assuring me it was only some 2 kms it turned out to be 5 and on the wrong side of a mountain. I got back some 2 hours after setting out exhausted. The vegetables were good!
Paray le Monial, for us, has a reputation somewhat larger than the actuality. It has indeed got lots of religious buildings, including a very fine Basilica which at the moment looks very stark on the inside as it has recently been restored to its original 'new' stone finish. Half of the town ( the part nearest to the canal) seems to be dying with lots of closed down shops and empty buildings. Close to the Basilica the shops are good - although they seem to have much too expensive stuff - like Villeroy and Boch chinaware- for the local population. Perhaps in the summer when the town is reputably full of religious tourits and pilgrims the business to be done will justify the quality.

Stree scene Paray le Monial

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The chinese restaurant was barely that, having only a couple of chinese dishes in a long and amitious menu. All the same we ate well and enjoyed.

May 8th
As really gentle day, just over 10kms and 3 locks to Diguin. The weather looked a bit threatening before we started, but soon cleared up and we enjoyed another beutiful May day of uninterrupted sunshine. Arriving at Diguin before lunch time we had a drink, lunch and then a stroll through the town.
Diguin has nothing to offer and is probably the most uninteresting town we have passed through. Just about its only claim to fame is that it marks the end of the so beautiful Canal du Centre and the beginning of the Canal Lateral a la Loire. Hence a new blog from tomorrow on, although I will still be working on this one to get all the pics into it.
With no interest here we will move on tomorrow - but only about half the distance we originally planned as we have spotted a small restaurant along the way that we are anxious to try.

THE CANAL DU CENTRE IS 115 KMS LONG AND CONTAINS 63 LOCKS
IT TOOK US 18 DAYS IN ALL, WITH 9 DAYS OF TRAVEL
OUR FUEL CONSUMPTION WAS APPROX 500 LITRES (10.5 LITRES PER HOUR)